Tackling Lace (and the Springtime Bandit), Part 1

24 May

I have been taken over by lace. It started out as an interest, quickly escalated to a war, then became an obsession of wills. The plus side of living in the Northeast is that you can wear scarves, “shawlettes” and bandanas and not melt after five minutes in the middle of Spring/Summer. I came to the conclusion my wardrobe needs these additions and, of course, I would make them. I decided to use my Plymouth Covington 2035 Yarn for the Springtime Bandit.

The pattern lists that it’s intermediate. Let me tell you, it’s ALL LIES! Don’t get me wrong, I love this pattern now, but it’s very advanced. Here are my reasons, it’s a chart only pattern – actually, it’s THREE charts, four sections, no written instructions for the body and the cast on is tricky. I wasn’t able to find a pattern tutorial all in one place and spent hours researching and figuring out the best way to get the desired result. I felt I owed it to others who follow to make an FAQ and a lace tutorial (of sorts). Don’t be scared away, I’ve done the hard part, figuring it out.

To give you my lace credentials, You might remember my wrap from the Juliet Scarf pattern or my Skinny Lace Scarf from the Cashsilk Fern Scarf pattern. “I’ve done lace before, nothing to worry about,” I assured myself. When I put this pattern in my queue I didn’t worry about going over the instructions. After frogging a different project, I turned to this one and the nightmare began…

It’s the baby start of a Springtime Bandit bandana!

Let’s start at casting on (it really does have to start here). The cast on is called Provisional (or invisible, or loop) Cast on. I chose to do the crochet chain method and found the tutorial from Jimmy Bean’s Wool extremely helpful and very easy. You can also do the method where using a knitting needle (check out Knittinghelp.com‘s video). Either way doesn’t matter, as long as you do it consistently and end up taking out the extra yarn.

When you get near the end of casting on, it reads, “K2, rotate work and pick up 1 st in each of 3 garter ridges,” You pick up from the left side on the garter ridge “knots.” The work goes from vertical to horizontal. The reason you have to cast on this way is because the edging of the bandit looks similar to the way this cast on looks. It keeps the shawl looking the same all the way around.

Now that you’ve got that down, let’s go on to the first chart. (If you never read a chart only pattern before, the best way to describe what you’re doing is reading a map. You have a legend, symbols/pictures and a distinct way of reading them. For more on how to read them, check out this Knitty post or Wendy knits ‘ post). These chart pattern read more advanced than tutorial charts you typically find. You read from right to left and when you get to the little green box, you read the same line from left to right, working “backwards.”

Example, line 1 reads: K2, yo, K1, yo, K1 (you still have three stitches left, now you go backwards), yo, K1, yo, K2

You only do the middle stitch once before you start working backwards. This chart only shows the right side rows, read page 2 “Notes on the Chart” section. Once you finish this chart, congratulations! You’ve finished a quarter of the way of the project. Keep going!

Cooking up part 2,
-Stacy C.


8 Responses to “Tackling Lace (and the Springtime Bandit), Part 1”

  1. matocaPattrice June 4, 2012 at 12:37 PM #

    Hi Stacy,
    Thank you for writing this helpful aid! I am wondering if you have reached the transition from the body to the edging? I am there and the stitch numbers are not matching. I am clueless how to put the edging on so that it matches the point on the bottom of each body “cluster.” There are just too many stitches in the body to match this edging!

    • theyarnfix June 4, 2012 at 3:16 PM #

      Hello! I have finished the whole project (successfully), I just haven’t gotten around to writing all the parts. Sorry!

      If you end up with 167 stitches as the pattern dictates, the edging should work. Remember you have to repeat the 14 stitch section multiple times until you get to the last section of stitches. What I did, which actually aided me in not messing up in this section was print out the edge chart and mark how many knit stitches in each line section.
      Ex: for line one, after the first yo, write 5 in the middle box and put a line through the rest, then you have a nov, etc. That should help you keep track of the number. I’m going to get to that part soon, bare with me!

      • matoca June 4, 2012 at 10:39 PM #

        I started to chart this so I could send you an image of what the problem was. And that is when I solved my problem!

        What I thought was a yarn over symbol in the center of the repeat in the edging stitch is really a SK2togP.

        Well that explains why when I got to that point, I could not figure out how to put a yarn over there! And, after making that mistake, from that point on, I was two stitches behind in the pattern.

        I’ve had problems reading this chart from the start and this was just another opportunity to make a mistake because of that. I guess if it had been me, I would have used a different symbol that didn’t look so much like a yo!

        Thank you for the help!

        • theyarnfix June 5, 2012 at 9:25 AM #

          No problem! This pattern is VERY hard to read, so I sympathize. but the results are very rewarding. Good luck!

  2. matoca June 5, 2012 at 3:56 PM #

    Aghh. I got that first row of the edging done and it was perfect.

    Then I started on row 2. I have done the math a number of times, I end up with only 4 stitches available to work in K from the first yo to the purl stitch. And looking at the rest of the row, I continue to see only 4 K stitches until the SK2togP occurs.

    However, the pattern for row 2 shows 5K stitches in between the purl and the SK2togP. Can you figure out from looking at your knitting what I have done wrong? I can’t believe I am having so much trouble with this chart.

    • theyarnfix June 6, 2012 at 9:14 AM #

      Row two is K2, P until you get to the last two stitches, K2. Are you sure you’re looking at the right row for the second? The chart is squeezed on one piece of paper. You should only have four stitches available to K on row 2.
      Don’t worry about having problems. You really have to isolate each row and ignore the rest of the pattern to not go crazy. If you completed the last row absolutely correct and then you have trouble on the next row, you read the pattern incorrectly. Don’t believe for a second your last row was wrong and you just “accidentally” ended up right. There is no feasible way to do that with this project. Happy finishing!

  3. theyarnfix March 25, 2013 at 1:04 PM #

    I’m glad you enjoyed my post and I hope it helped you!


  1. Score! – Show Notes | Jane and Jen Knit Funny - March 20, 2013

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